Ash evasion; adventure afoot

Icelandic Eyjafjallajökull's stubborn volcanic ash cloud, from which my flight to Europe two weeks ago just barely escaped, is now effecting parts of Spain and Portugal.

The cloud shut the gates of Porto's little airport, canceling my flight there yesterday, and keeping me in Lyon another night.

Having delayed check-in for two hours, delayed the flight another three, and given an unclear explanation of the cancellation to a group of chaotic, disenchanted travelers, my budget airline gave each passenger a coupon for 4.50 Euros' worth of airport fare, and the option to apply to refund our tickets.

The process wore me out, but in a fatigued, head-achy state, I got me back to Lyon's main train station and called my host mum, hoping she'd take me in another night. No deal; nice as she tried to be, Michaely was out for the night and coordinating a rendezvous without a local cell phone would be tough. Then our phone call was cut off.

By email, I reassured Michaely I'd be fine and 'splurged' on a budget hotel near the train station. Chilly, bare floors. Solid bed, working shower. I collapsed without brushing my teeth.

Ah, but then I slept. Utterly refreshed this morning, I found that in my slightly-blurry, slightly-defeated state last night, I'd made a solid decision. With the help of a very knowledgeable young SNCF rail-clerk, I'd reserved seat on an overnight train to Irun, Spain for tonight. Irun is just over the southern border of France.

If I can, I'll hit up San Sebastian, supposedly a gorgeous beach town, which happens to be just nearby Irun. Planning my trip back in March, I'd attempted to work this town into the plan. Mom wrote 'be careful with those thoughts.' She says they make things happen.

Once in Irun, I'll buy another overnight-train ticket for Coimbra, Portugal, which is between Porto and Lisbon. I'd planned to spend a couple of days in Porto, but I'll be low on time by then, so I'll probably head right to Lisbon from Coimbra.

My route from Lyon to Lisbon will look something like this.

I'm grinning right now. Those stringed instruments in my chest are warming up.

Most posts are more delightful with photos, so here's one of Lyon at sunset, from the banks of the Rhone river.